24 Feb 2017

Dining:

First Bite: Sospeso

Man, it’s been a while since we’ve done a First Bite, hasn’t it? I blame my lack of posts on Twitter: It’s so much easier to share a quick soundbite into the world than sit down and write all about it. (I’m looking at you Fare Well: ONE DAY I will visit you, right Jen?) Anyway. After being open just about a week, Sospeso, the Mediterranean-flavored eatery with the Italian name opened their doors for dinner Wednesday afternoon. With the possible exception of the octopus –which they wouldn’t try anywhere, anyway– (MORE FOR ME) my two kids tried and loved everything that we ordered for the table.

Look at those mitts. It’s hard to wrest food away from those not-so-little hands, but I managed nicely. Photo by María Helena Carey

Sospeso’s easy vibe and no-frills mediterranean food is hearty and satisfying. The casual presentation hits a nice balance between polish and homey: The dishes are prettily plated, with painted mustard dips, micro greens and olive swirls of oil.

The medium-rare hanger steak was just so: Juicy on the inside and charred tastily on the outside. Okay, maybe a wee bit too pink for medium rare, but no one complained. The roasted chicken had crispy skin with just enough salt to make it crackle without being dry. The chicken itself was moist and flavorful.

If you’re a potato lover, the fingerling potatoes are a must-try: As addictive as french fries, but with the wholesome goodness of an actual potato-looking potato, they are fun to dip in everything. Speaking of dips, the hummus is excellent.

You will get a side of focaccia and pita breads with your order, but a fork is a far more effective tool when you order said hummus topped with roasted lamb.

The hummus, well-sprinkled with paprika and parsley and topped with tasty olive oil, holds its own with the roasted lamb. The tiny bits of meat were well executed and, most importantly, not greasy at all. That way, they could play nice with the olive oil and the hummus without overpowering the dish. Beware: In little people, this dish might bring out their covetous squirrel-like instincts, so order one for them and one for you.

We look forward to trying items like the Ras el Hanout soup, the whole fish and the chickpea salad. If you have, tell us what you loved best!

In the grand tradition of having to fight for your food, when we ordered a slice of the almond cake with pomegranate mascarpone, things degenerated quickly. I would entreat you to order enough for the table or risk getting your fingers bitten off. I definitely recommend you never join us for dinner, because we sound kind of savage.

The wine selection was small but had intriguing offerings from Italy, Greece and other points along European wine regions. I’m looking forward to exploring this part of the menu on my next visit, sans kids.

Bonus: If you’re seated in the downstairs rear area, enjoy the photography skills of many local shutterbugs (including mine). All photos are for sale, too!

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