Tortilla Coast. Photo by María Helena Carey
Whenever Tortilla Coast, 400 First Street SE, comes up in conversation, there is a distinct crackle in the air in this Democrat bastion of a city. Many long-time neighbors have never set foot in this relaxed, often-noisy Tex-Mex restaurant located a stone’s throw from Cannon House Office Building, with the (sometimes) correct assumption that only rowdy staffers eat there. There are also staccato whispers as to the party affiliation of the restaurant, as if fiscally-conservative pico de gallo were more stomach-upsetting than its more moderate counterpart.
This would be a mostly incorrect assumption, except that Paul Ryan *did* work here and GQ was all over it. The link is from 2012, and as we have been apprised by the latest New York Times column (docu-mocked extensively by fine local word purveyors), DC has better dining options now– and thank goodness we have THAT seal of approval, amirite?
Anyway, this column is about tacos. Tortilla Coast’s tacos are very, very good: specifically, their tuna tacos are really great.
Yes, there was a time in the not-so-distant past when Tortilla Coast served dry rice and beans; when they oversalted the chips and undersalted the rim in your Margarita glass; when they added too much spice to kids’ food and not enough to what could sometimes be watery salsa. However, as DC’s cuisine has evolved, TC has upped its game. The tuna tacos here are probably my favorite tacos almost anywhere. (Take that, GQ and Yelpers!)
Back to the tacos: Tortilla Coast serves a number of tacos: Coast tacos, which are your average taco, chicken or beef; Tacos al Carbon, which are grilled steak or chicken and quite delicious; al Pastor, that delightful pineapple-laced taco dream; Carne asada, flank steak; Carnitas pork; and beef brisket. While all tacos are quite good –and if you have a favorite, you always order that one– the one that keeps me coming back is the tuna taco. (Hold your jokes, please.)
The aforementioned fish tacos, served with cilantro rice and black beans. Photo by María Helena Carey
Said tuna tacos come numbered three and are served in corn tortillas. Side note: while I like fish tacos served Baja style (with battered pieces of white fish), I find that a quality fish pan-seared is a tastier and classier taco filling: a grown-up taco, for a grown-up lady who may or may not steal fries off kids’ plates. Feel free to disagree and please provide photographic evidence of my theft.
The trio feature a really good rémoulade made with cabbage and beans. They come dressed with chipotle crema and tasty avocado chunks. And each taco comes brimming with thick pieces of tuna, cooked to your desired state of doneness. I usually order mine medium rare to rare, and whoever minds the tacos (the taco fairy?) delivers very well. Granted, I am not ever going to be that diner who sends tacos back because they arrived solidly medium– I can hear my grandmother delivering her speech on all the starving masses around the world who would be happy to consume my meal.
Tortilla Coast can also serve tacos on flour tortillas, though for most dishes either soft or crispy corn is the default. Neither is homemade. For the delight of homemade –and in order to see the industrial-sized comal in action– you have to order the fajitas. Have you had them? Tell me about it in the comments, okay?
The taco rubric cometh. Look busy:
Why this taco is good: Fresh tuna that is cooked exactly to order, a generous portion (three tacos!), a consistently good dressing for the tacos, and two tasty sides make this platter a winner. Most appetites will be satisfied by this plate. Only when I am going through massive hunger pangs do I need to steal food from my kids’ plates to satisfy my hunger. I’m an excellent mother.
What could be better about this taco: Stale tortillas are the bane of any taco’s existence. Although this dish is served as advertised with corn tortillas, TC is very kind with substitutions. If the tortillas are not fresh, I would suggest doing that. (I have not turned down a taco on account of freshness.) At $13.95, this is among the pricier taco providers, so this could be a dealbreaker for some. Noisy staffers are noisy on weeknights. If you hate sports, don’t come here.
Corn or flour tortilla: Some tacos come served in flour and some come served in corn. The staff is friendly and has always been accommodating with me and my family, so ask before ordering and say please and thank you.
Why you should give it a try: I’ve been coming to Tortilla Coast for years, and ever since I discovered the tuna tacos, I sometimes get a craving that can only be fulfilled by them: a taco-tuna-shaped hole in my heart that won’t go away otherwise. If fish is not your thing, they have a wide array of flavors to satisfy your craving. Did I mention their Cadillac Margaritas are also good?
And if you’re into the whole Paul Ryan thing because you can’t let go of the past, well…. he worked there. So you have that going for you.