Park Café: Or, Why You Should Give Some Places the Benefit of the Doubt

Photo by María Helena Carey

Every restaurant on the Hill seems to have its own die-hard following, and just as strong a string of naysayers criticizing it. For every moved-me-to-tears dinner someone may have experienced, someone else has a horror story to match it. Amazingly enough, despite the polarity of these two camps, many restaurants still manage to fly low under the radar when people are unsure of what to think and who to believe.

Park Café may be one such place. Its location, overlooking Lincoln Park from 13th Street, is enviable.  The view is always happy and dynamic: the park’s life overflows onto its wide windows but does not overwhelm it.

From the very beginning, Park Café has captured my imagination.  And imagining is mostly what I have done in the four years since I’ve made Capitol Hill my home: having an al fresco dinner late on a Friday night; having a culinary tryst; or a rewarding walk in the snow only to get to some flavorful and understated Mediterranean cuisine.

My first actual experiences with Park Café were less than ideal.  Undercooked fish, overcooked lamb, bland sides and an overall narrow, uninspired menu that was entirely too expensive for the level of satisfaction it provided all kept me away.

To be honest, the only thing that made me go back at some point was an asset that has remained as strong as it was then: their wine list is just amazing– culled lovingly and painstakingly by someone who clearly has a superior understanding of grapes and their products.  As a matter of fact, if you ever go to Park Café, make sure you go to the bathroom just so you can see the tons and tons of wine bottles that line the basement.  It’s a thing of beauty, even if you’re not into drinking wine.

But back to the food: it was lackluster.  It was hit-or-miss, and with the prices (the entrées hover between $25 and $35, just to give you an idea), a “miss” night could mean at least two other generous meals at more affordable and sure-hit places .  And then about a month or so ago, I decided to give Park Café another try.  It was such a lovely afternoon –perfect early summer weather, with fireflies and little kids lifting off at the park– that it just sounded like a good idea.

I was not disappointed in the least.  As a matter of fact, somewhere in between the beautiful Caprese salad and the amazing lamb entrée, I felt the happiness of being in the presence of something special: a neighborhood restaurant that takes itself and its customers seriously.  From the wine list to the little bite of pizza they bring out to whet your appetite, they make sure you have anything and everything you need, even before you need it.

Currently, the person who contributes the most to making the place so special is the owner’s daughter, Henri.  She wears many hats in the place, and wears them all very well.  It makes me sad that she is only here on break from law school and will have to go back to New York City soon, because she is a happy soul– ready to issue a recommendation or a smile at any time, or even to cut up one’s delicious duck should one’s hands be busy trying to soothe a cranky toddler.  Her candor and her recommendations –most notably the tuna steak that was the special, and the tempura appetizer from a couple of weeks ago– are always spot on.

Make some time this summer to rediscover a place that I can only hope keeps being as wonderful, understated and special as it has been for me this summer: Park Café.

Park Café is located at 106 13th Street, SE.  For more information, you can call 202-543-0184 or visit their website at parkcafedc.com.