First Bite: Ninnella

The restaurant on the east end of Lincoln Park, which was for many years the Park Cafe, should be the most neighborhood-y of neighborhood spots. So when we went to check out the new incarnation, Ninnella, we did so with our neighbors in tow.

Let’s first dispense with the obvious, Ninnella: you’re open now, so help me find you. At a minimum, put your hours on the door. On your next day off, put up a Yelp! page and maybe start a Facebook page too. I totally understand if its taking a while to get even a basic website up – believe me, having consulted for small businesses like yours, I get it. But these days you can manage for quite a while with some basic (and free) social media.

Now to the good stuff … Our group of four arrived at 6:30 last Friday to, fortunately, find Ninnella open. The exterior is basically the same, but the interior is much improved. Where Park Cafe was dark with oftentimes odd artwork (as in strange, not avant guarde), Ninnella has greatly improved the space with overhead lights at every table and a more contemporary creamy wall color punctuated by abstract impressionistic artwork.  Already a far more pleasant and welcoming environment than previously.

We were warmly greeted with complimentary glasses of Prosecco and a wine list that was long enough to offer choice (in varietal and price) without being excessive.  Then there was the bread.  I’m not much of a bread eater – it usually isn’t worth the carb count – but Ninnella’s was delicious.  Crusty on the outside with a soft but substantive inside, it had a peppery flavor that went well with a dip of olive oil.

Our group started with a spinach salad, mixed green salad and the rabbit pate.  The salads weren’t anything particularly surprising or creative, but our friends said they tasted great and were well executed (nothing was wilted or drowning in balsamic).  The pate had a perfect texture but was a bit drab for my taste.  Though that didn’t keep me from enjoying it smeared across the aforementioned bread.

There are four pasta dishes on the menu so we tried them all:  angel hair with clams, tagliatelle with bolognese, pappardelle with bolognese and a lamb ragout lasagna (Thrillist posted the soft opening menu here).  Pappardelle bolognese is my barometer dish when trying a new Italian restaurant and this was one of the better versions I’ve had.  The pasta was fresh, and the sauce was flavorful and hearty without weighing down the dish.  It was also a perfect serving size – not a sloppy plate piled with a pound of pasta.  There were compliments all around for the quality and nice balance of flavor in each dish, accompanied by clean plates that are the truest indicator of enjoyment.

As far as service, it is what I generally characterize as being “European style”.  Attentive enough, but not exactly on the ball and it lagged more and more as the restaurant filled.  Which is fine in a small dining room like theirs when you can get the server’s attention when you are ready for the check.  But you will have to ask.  However our server was always pleasant, offering good suggestions for wine and entrees.  I was prepared for the worst when friends who had gone earlier in the week had a server who corrected their pronunciation of dishes and got most of the orders mixed up in one way or another.  Our experience was much different and perhaps indicative that they’re still working out some kinks.

We were the first diners of the evening when we arrived at 6:30 but by the time we left at 8:00, the restaurant was full and there were people waiting for our table (though you could pass a nice half hour at the bar, if that’s the case).  It was good to see that space full and lively after years of it being so empty of diners.  There were also several familiar neighborhood faces — people we often pass on the street or see at the park.  I suppose we are all curious and eager for our quaint neighborhood restaurant to do well.  I think they do have a better formula for success than their predecessor.  The prices aren’t quite as eye-popping as Park Cafe’s were and the quality of food was certainly better than I remember.

Ninnella just may be hitting that sweet spot between special occasion restaurant and a place neighbors can frequent without breaking the bank.  I can certainly see our double date being repeated many times in the future.

(Hungry for more?  Thrillist has some nice interior photos here.)